Fatty but Fashionable

Summary


It's all too easy to romanticise the food of the poor as healthy and simple. Marrow is neither. It is fatty, the lightness of the marrow disguising its disastrous effect on the waistline; three or four bones' worth of marrow are thus more than sufficient for a starter. Finding marrow-bones is also not simple. Most supermarkets throw them away; you need to find a high-end highstreet butcher.

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Extract


Fatty but Fashionable

January meant marrow-bones in my youth.

For most of the year on my housing estate in Chicago, beef featured at best twice a week; after the expense of the holidays it became temporarily an impossible luxury.

B...

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