Summary
Bumblebee crams a cannonball frame into a black and yellow rash vest with a bright-yellow bucket hat and is very dangerous when he catches a wave because he is unable to swerve or stop. The dilemma comes when this happens on a big spring tide day: should you surf and risk cholera, or stay safe on the sand, left to your thoughts of old age - such as, 'How many seasons do I still have, how many swells?' Despite all this I sense that everybody in our circle has personality disorders, some acquired, in my case possibly genetic, for which the only therapy is getting wet. Surfing endorphins expose all dry-land ambition as a tiresome diversion from the main action.
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Extract
Wave Power
Indian Ocean Coast
I am woken at dawn by bastardised Australian and Swahili. 'Wakey wakey hands off snakey, ' says Abo. 'Comin' out, malango?' These are my surfing buddies: Dau...See the full content of this document
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